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When assembling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar high-end establishments. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the owners completely surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” states a proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.